BB June 3

It's a long time since the last update however that doesn't mean nothing has been
happening. It means that some lowlife created a virus that got my PC (despite running a
firewall and updated AV software), so I've had to find some time to fix that as well as
everything else.

In my last update I mentioned some issues that needed resolving, and I'm happy to say
that most of them have been. First up was to add some bracing to the raer panel above
the seatback, where people lean on it when they get in and out. This was done with some
cold rolled steel which is flexible but strong. Braced against the side rails the hoop
effect is quite strong and it's held in place with a row of copper rivets

This additional hoop also provided anchorage for some seat restraints. Where
the back had flexed when people sat in the seat, it had broken the upper
backrest. I made up some 'L' brackets that the outside of the backrest could
lean against, thus stopping the rotational forces around the upper backrest.

The next job was to work out why the engine wouldn't rev, and also why it was losing oil. Removing the rocker
covers revealed all. There are four long threaded rods that come from the block, through the barrels andinto the
head. These run through the rocker pedestals and the have nuts on the end that hold the whole thing together
(pedestal, head and barrel onto block). On the offside two of these were only finger tight and on the nearside one
was so loose that the inlet pedesatl was loose and the rocker was having almost no effect on the inlet valve. All of
these were torqued up to the highest permissible setting, but I noticed that the two studs on the nearside were not
original equipment so I'll replace them. On the upside, the rocker covers had plenty of oil in them, so that isn't a
problem.

Having done all of that, the valve gaps were set and then the engine had to be re-set
up. Obviously the idle needed adjusting and the carbs had to be balanced. For this I
had bitten the bullet and bought and Carbtune II from Morgan. This works just like a
mercury manometer, but used damped stainless rods. I was very impressed with the
product and the service, click here to find out more. In the photo you can see the
carbtune in action with the cylinders balanced (and yes, it is supposed to be upside
down for R series BMW engines).

I've never been happy with the sealing on the offside front exhaust joint, so re-sealed
it with firegum and added a U clamp just to seal it while the firegum goes off. I can
then remove it and just use the original clamp.

And finally a word of warning. The exhausts do get hot. When refitting the carb
vacuum blanking screws which are under the carb, my arm touched the exhaust. I
heard it before I felt it - but I've been feeling it ever since.

I was a bit concerned that one of the head nuts hadn't torqued up properly, one of the ones holding the nearside
inlet rocker pedestal. I asked the question on the Motobins forum, and the answer came back that I may have
stripped the thread where the stud enters the crankcase and the only solution is to helicoil the hole. I've ordered
the bits I need from MotoBins, including a new head gasket and new studs, but the helicoil fitting kist are
expensive - I'll have to see if I can borrow one.

I drove the car to work nonetheless and it didn't feel quite right. On the way home I noticed that the nearside
front wheel was bobbing up and down for all it was worth. When I got home I found that the damper was shot -
you could hold it in the middle and it would flex up and down. Checking the others I found that the offside rear
adjuster wouldn't, and it seemd to be set to its maximum setting i.e. rock hard. No wonder it felt odd.

With all of this going on, I realised it would be off the road for a few days, so time to take the plunge and fit the
rear seats. Those of you who have followed my meanderings will know that I have always planned this, but I've
humming and hawing a bit. The children have grown a bit since I started the build, and they will be sat up quite
high. There is also the risk of buggering it up. But my wife was keen so I got on with it (like a good soldier!)

First job was measuring the kids and working out what was the smallest hole I could get
away with. Then old wallpaper was taped to the back deck and the measurements were
transferred onto it. I spent several hours checking and re-checking until I felt happy
with the shape of the hole. I had only drawn half of it, and by noting the centreline of
the car onto the paper, I could fold it in half and cut around the line, thus creating the
master hole shape.

Once this was done, more wallpaper was taped to the upper deck and the master hole
shape placed on it (keeping the centrelines together) and then the hole shape could be
transferred to the paper by drawing around the master. Then with great trepidation, I
started the cut witha dremel so that the jigsaw would pass through, and then cut out
the metal. Getting this right was key - I don't want to trim the hole at all after it was
cut so that bit I cut out can go back as a solid lid, thereby keeping the general lines
when I'm on my own and a secure cover for luggage.

Back in the garage tonight. I finished the cardboard mock up of the bulkhead which
is just fit and trim, fit and trim until is is right. Next job was to transfer that to
MDF so that the MDF could be used a sa former for moulding the shape and the
flanges in metal. This isn't too difficult, just laborious, especially as I'd done so
much of it when building the car in the first place.

Once that was made up and adjusted to fit (adjusting involves a rubber mallet) I had
the first chance to see if I'd got it all right. With the bulkhead held in place with
gaffer tape and the seats in place, I lifted my son Timmy in and lo and behold, he
fitted. I always knew that I'd have to fit some guards over the exhaust silencers,
but it looks as though I got it right.

It doesn't look too awkward either. One of the things I was concerned about was
the effect it had on the cars looks. I think it will be OK, and having the solid cover
to put back should mean there is little impact overall.

So , next job was to drill the rivet holes, make up seom filler as a mating agent (to
take up irrelgularities in the flange) and then half pull the rivets, which all takes
me back a year or so. In the photo to the left, you can see where I've created a
footwell by having the seats further forwards, and all that palaver over seatbelt
mounts. I do so love it when a plan comes together - it's all gone too smoothly so
I'm looking for the falling sandbag.

Tonights job was to finish the rear seats but I didn't quite get that far. Through
talking to the neighbours and playing with the kids, I got distracted so I still have
some bits left to do. After pulling the rivets, first job was cutting a hole behind the
rear hoop so that it acts as an upper seatbelt mount and fitting the seatbelts, which
was basically a nut and bolt exercise. Problem is that the filler hasn't really gone
off properly. it's still a bit soft.

After a some fiddling getting the belt buckles in the right place, the velcro strips
for the seat base and backrest could be glued to the panels, the rubber mat cut to
size and velcroed into place (this was the old 2CV rear mat that I had saved) and
the kids could try it for size. It looks fine.

As you can see, I still have to trim the interior, and more importantly make up a
guard for the exhaust/wheels so that the children can't touch them - they are old
enough to know, but young enough to be inquisitive.........

Final touch will be to add a 2" rim all around the section of ally that was cut out
and fit locks so that I have a solid cover. That is why I was so careful making the
right template, rather than cutting the hole small and widening it out. This way, I
have an almost right sized cover to start with.